Waxing and buffing the panels to a mirror finish is addictive, you’ll see! Touch up before waxingīut just before we splash on the wax, we have an opportunity to use a touch-up paint pen on those large stone chips and broken paint scratches. This is the final stage, it’s the most important and the most satisfying. When you have a small test section complete, wash it off with water and move to step two. You’ll know when to move to a fresh area as the layers of dead red paint will start runoff. Rub the paintwork in a systematic way, use the soapy water as a lubricant, and clean the sanding block from time to time. Start in an inconspicuous place, such as below the waist line of a bumper corner, just until you get a feel for the work. Use fresh sandpaper in your sanding block on every panel. This is a labor-intensive process and shouldn’t be rushed. We use a sanding block as this prevents the fingers from causing rub marks in the paint. This process involves rubbing each panel at a time to remove the layers of oxidized paint. The grade of grit is critical here, using a heavier grit sanding block will damage the paintwork. Prepare a bucket of soapy water and your 1200 grade sanding block. We only work on one panel at a time, we’re not masking the whole car at once here. So it’s a case of a little work now or a little more work later. This isn’t a crucial step, but you’ll find the red paint runoff will be difficult to remove from textured plastic trim. Mask off black trim parts, like door strips and door mirrors. In this repair, we’ll – Block Flatten, Compound, Paste, Polish & Wax. This is a five-step process and is the right choice for you if you’re very particular or your car is badly sun-damaged and is older than the year 2000. Option Two: This is much less work, it still produces great results and is perfect for light to medium sun damage, it can be used on all-year cars, no matter what paint type. You would choose this option if your paintwork is very badly faded and your car is older than the year 2000. Option One: This is the most amount of work, but produces the very best results that will last the longest. ![]() If your car was built after 2000, it probably has a water-based paint coating.Īt this point you have a couple of options and your choice will be based on (A) How old your car is (B) How badly your paint is faded, and (C), How much work you wish to put in. Modern car paints are thinner and water-based, which means they’re softer and don’t respond as well to block flattening. First off, it’s worth noting, all car paints aren’t the same.
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