Place the sugar and 1/2 cup water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. ![]() This will flatten the slightly domed top. Then turn the cake upside down onto a rack to cool. Transfer the cake to a rack and let it cool for about 5 minutes. Immediately scrape the batter into the prepared pan, place the pan on a baking sheet, and bake until the cake feels just firm to the touch, about 40 minutes. With a large rubber spatula, using as few strokes as possible, finish folding the flour mixture and butter into the batter until evenly mixed. Pour in the melted butter, making sure to leave the white, milky solids behind. As soon as all the flour has been added to the eggs, stop the machine. Lower the speed to stir and carefully tap the dry ingredients into the egg mixture. When the whisk is lifted, the batter will form a thick ribbon as it falls back into the bowl. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs, sugar, and vanilla at high speed until the mixture has tripled in volume and is very thick, about 8 minutes. Sift the 1/2 cup flour, the cocoa, and the salt together onto a sheet of parchment paper and set aside. Butter and flour a 10-inch cake pan that is 3 inches deep such as a springform mold. Place the rack in the center of the oven. (See the Note on the next page for details on substitutions.) A good Black Forest cake should be very moist and have a distinct kirsch flavor. Depending on what you find, the syrup will contain more or less sugar, so be sure to taste first and adjust your ingredients accordingly. You can use fresh or frozen fruit or shop for jars of preserved sour cherries such as morello and amarena cherries. But if you want to make this cake and did not start in June during cherry season, you still have plenty of options. My recipe uses home-preserved sour cherries. Give the finished cake a minimum of four hours in the refrigerator before serving, but its even better made a whole day in advance. The cakes flavor develops as the kirsch soaks into the layers. Once you have baked the cake, you have completed the part that needs the greatest attention. As with many fancy cakes, the assembly is easy it just takes lots of words to describe. When he was ready, my brother or I would hold the parchment paper folded above the bowl and tap the flour over the batter while Dad folded it in, telling us to tap faster or slower. He sifted the flour, cocoa, and salt onto a sheet of parchment paper. On a daily basis, he would grab one of us kids to help. My father finished his génoise by hand, using a huge whisk with widely spaced wires to fold the flour and then the butter into the batter with big, efficient strokes so it would not deflate. Under all the whipped cream icing of the Black Forest cake are three layers of chocolate génoise soaked in kirsch.
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